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Roma: Authentic Recipes from In and Around the Eternal City
by Julia Della Croce and Paolo Destefanis
Available from Amazon
$19.95
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From Publishers Weekly
Della Croce’s cup of unforgettable recipes runneth over in this handy compendium of Roman cuisine, sprinkled generously with delicious culinary proverbs ("Eating without drinking is like building without mortar"). In a handsomely illustrated book happy to remain open on a busy countertop, the veteran chef and culinary teacher presents dozens of local recipes from Italy’s Lazio region, and Rome in particular. Organized in the order they would be eaten, from antipasto to dolci, the dishes are generally so accessible that even novice cooks will prepare them with relative ease. There are sections on appetizers and first courses, a detailed listing of second courses—traditionally meat or fish—and tempting chapters on side dishes and sweets. Though it is difficult to isolate just one standout from each section, Risotto with Pureed Asparagus and Smoked Provola and della Croce’s own Fish Fillets in Caper Sauce alla romana are both particularly pleasing. The author also includes rarely seen recipes, such as the homey Pasta and Chickpeas or an especially fun pizza di Pasqua, or sweet Easter bread. A few inclusions, however, such as Veal Heart with Lemon and Parsley, may be too adventuresome for all but seasoned chefs. When a specific ingredient may be difficult to find in less metropolitan areas, della Croce helpfully suggests a comparable substitute. Destefanis offers crisp photographs of the cuisine and scenic views from around the Lazio region. Sharing both recipes and many of her favorite Roman restaurants, hotels and festivals, della Croce leaves readers wishing they could abandon their own kitchens and experience the Eternal City’s culinary delights firsthand.
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
Review
Julia della Croce's "Roma: Authentic Recipes From In and Around the Eternal City" (Chronicle Books, $19.95), is a paperbound book with terrific photos by Paolo Destefanis. Della Croce, who is the award-winning author of 10 previous cookbooks, including "The Classic Italian Cookbook" (1996), reminds us that Italians say Rome has no cuisine of its own, but she asserts that that's not true. She points to Romans' bold use of pepper and other spices, their fondness for lard and other pork fat, along with olive oil, fennel, mint, cilantro and bitter chocolate (especially in stews and sweet-and-sour dishes). In any case, it's a little hard to focus on the quite-thorough explanations of ingredients such as pecorino and puntarella when a flip through the pages makes you want to pick up a pan. Della Croce's book is not as exhaustive as Dunaway's, but there's no shortage of wonderful dishes. Those I've tried have turned out so well, they've instantly joined my repertoire. "Jump-in-the-mouth" saut ed veal cutlets (Saltimbocca alla romana) sound like a silly escapee from a 1970s menu, but these simple little rolls of veal layered with prosciutto and fresh sage are irresistible. The instructions are a little goofy, though, insisting that you cut the meats into 2- by 4-inch rectangles, discarding any scraps. I did so, but I don't discard veal or prosciutto, so I just made raggedly little rolls with the extras, and they were just as delicious. The recipe also forgets to say to roll them up before securing with toothpicks. Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. For baby peas coddled in lettuce (Piselli alla lattuga), Della Croce calls for either fresh English peas or frozen baby peas. How good could it possibly be with frozen peas? Really good, it turns out. You line the pot with lettuce leaves, which impart a hint of flavor, and add finely chopped scallions and fresh mint leaves. I still don't understand why it's so good. Another contorno (side dish), roasted onions with vinegar dressing (Cipolle al forno), is as simple as can be, with about five minutes of active preparation. But they're so meltingly delicious and beautiful that I've not only made them thrice, but I've also given the recipe to my mother, who loved it so much that she gave it to a friend and my brother. With that kind of exponential recipe blabbing, it's only a matter of time before they land on your table. -Los Angeles Times
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Roma: Authentic Recipes from In and Around the Eternal City
by Julia Della Croce and Paolo Destefanis
Available from Amazon
$19.95
|
|
|
|
